Totally Rome logo The Rome Index

Food

Carbonara — the guide

The most argued-about pasta in Italy. Here's what's actually in it.

What's actually in it

Guanciale (cured pig cheek), Pecorino Romano, eggs (whole eggs plus extra yolks), black pepper and pasta water. That is all. No cream — this is a non-negotiable rule, not a stylistic preference. No onion, no peas, no pancetta as a substitute for guanciale if you want the authentic version.

The technique

The sauce is made off the heat — the residual warmth of the pasta and a splash of starchy cooking water emulsify the eggs and cheese into a silky coating. Add heat and you get scrambled eggs. The temperature control is the whole skill of the dish.

The mythology

The dish first appears in Italian cookbooks in the 1950s, possibly influenced by American troops bringing bacon and eggs to Italy during or after the Second World War — though the exact origin remains genuinely disputed. Romans who care about it find the debate tiresome; they just want you to make it correctly.

Related