The Rome IndexA walk through Prati
The Vatican's residential neighbour — wide streets, good food, and none of the tourist crush.
What Prati actually is
A late 19th-century planned residential district built after Italian unification, when Rome needed new housing for the capital's expanding population. Wide boulevards on a regular grid make it the most navigably flat neighborhood in central Rome — a quality appreciated by pushchair-users and anyone with tired feet.
The route
From Castel Sant'Angelo walk north along Via della Conciliazione, then turn into the Prati grid. Via Cola di Rienzo is the main shopping street — a mix of department stores, independent shops and excellent food shops. Via Candia and the streets around the covered market are better for the food shops locals actually use.
Where to eat
Prati has an excellent selection of mid-range restaurants and pizzerias that serve the neighborhood's working population — good quality, fair prices, and none of the Vatican-tourist-markup that plagues the streets immediately around St Peter's.