The Rome IndexA walk through Centro Storico
The essential loop through Rome's historic heart — Pantheon, Navona, Trevi, Farnese.
The route (about 3km)
Start at the Pantheon first thing — arrive at opening to beat the tour groups. Walk west through the lanes to Piazza Navona for the Bernini fountain. South through Campo de' Fiori to Piazza Farnese (Rome's quietest great piazza). East along Via dei Giubbonari to the Jewish Ghetto and the Theatre of Marcellus. North to the Largo di Torre Argentina cat sanctuary (cats live among actual Republican-era temple ruins). Back north to Piazza Navona for late lunch.
Evening version
The same route in the evening — Pantheon lit from inside, Navona fountain illuminated, Campo de' Fiori transitioning from market to bar scene — is a completely different experience. Add the Trevi Fountain at night on the way back.
What to stop for
Sant'Eustachio il Caffè for coffee near the Pantheon. San Luigi dei Francesi for three free Caravaggios two minutes from Piazza Navona (open most mornings and late afternoons).